When one speaks with
watch collectors, dealers and enthusiasts from all walks
of life, one brand is consistently singled out as being
"the Rolls-Royce of watches". Like that esteemed auto
manufacturer, it is a name that has become synonymous
with perfection, exclusivity and the finest
craftsmanship. The company is Patek Philippe and its
history offers a compelling insight into how this
unique, family-held watch company has dominated the
Swiss watch industry for over 160 years.
Patek Philippe was the
result of two brilliant, but very different men joining
forces to create a company that has endured almost
unchanged to this day. The saga began when Antoine
Norbert de Patek, a Polish refugee and former soldier,
immigrated to Geneva to study painting with A. Calame,
the famous landscape painter whom he had met in Paris.
Although Patek pursued a career as an artist for a short
time, it was not the vocation for which he was destined.
Instead, he began overseeing the assembly of
high-quality movements into fine cases. Through this, he
met the Czech-Polish watchmaker Francois Czapek, and the
men decided to go into business together. On May 1,
1839, Antoine Norbert de Patek founded the firm of
Patek, Czapek & Co., with its headquarters at Quai des
Bergues 29.
The young firm did well
enough, but may have remained a footnote in the annals
of horology had it not been for a fortuitous meeting in
1844 between Patek and up-and-coming Gevevois
watchmaker, Jean Adrien Philippe. Philippe, who had
emigrated from France, succeeded in constructing an
extremely flat pocket watch that could be wound up and
set by means of the crown, instead of with a key. His
partnership with Czapek all but over, Patek offered the
ambitious young watchmaker a job as Technical Director
of the firm, and dissolved Patek, Czapek & Co. in 1845.
The new company, Patek & Co., was formed that same year,
and thanks to Adrien Philippe's ingenuity and hard work,
business steadily improved. To recognize his partner's
efforts, Patek again re-organized the firm in 1851, this
time as Patek Philippe & Co.
Patek and Philippe forged a unique partnership that
spoke to their individual talents. Patek was a talented
salesman as well as a fearless traveler. Although at the
time, crossing the ocean was a dangerous undertaking at
best, Patek traveled around the world to promote the
brand and market his firm's watches. He documented these
journeys in his personal diaries, and related the many
hardships he and other travelers faced. Adrien Philippe,
on the other hand, was content to remain in Geneva and
focus his efforts on overseeing the technical direction
of the firm, as well as its day-to-day production. In
any event, the partnership worked so well that by the
time of his death, in 1877, Patek had been granted the
title of Count by Pope Pius IX. Adrien Philippe would
outlive Patek by 17 years and died in 1894.
Following the
co-founder's death, three longtime company employees -
including Edouard Kohn, who would later go on to buy
Ekregen - became partners in the firm. In 1901, Patek
Philippe was reorganized as a stock corporation under
the name "Ancienne Manufacture d'Horlogerie Patek
Philippe & Cie, SA". It was also re-capitalized with 1.6
million Swiss francs, a huge sum of money in those days.
Although Patek Philippe
did not manufacture the bulk of its own ebauches until
1910, the watches it did create remained of the highest
quality. One can find ultra-complicated watches from
this era that are simply remarkable in their designs and
advanced features. Needless to say, the company's
headquarters received frequent visits from wealthy
businessmen and royalty of the era. As a result, the
company built a lavish showroom where they could
entertain their most important guests while discreetly
conducting business.
It is also interesting to
note that during this period, Patek Philippe
custom-manufactured watches to a jeweler's
specifications and even produced an entire line of Art
Deco influenced watches especially for the Brazilian
jeweler, Gondolo & Labourian. Today, "Gondolo" watches
sold by that firm are considered quite desirable and
rare.
Unfortunately, the
company's fortunes suffered as a result of the Great
Depression. The market for expensive watches evaporated
overnight, sales plummeted and a financially stable
"white knight" had to be found to rescue the company
from the depths of despair. David LeCoultre, the
movement manufacturer from the Vallee de Joux, placed a
bid - but for reasons unknown, his offer was rejected.
Patek Philippe was finally sold to Charles and Jean
Stern, who owned "Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Freres", the
company that exclusively supplied dials to Patek
Philippe.
A new general manager, Jean Pfister, was hired.
Pfister's first move was to re-tool the factory so that
Patek Philippe could once again fabricate its own
ebauches. For the first time in years, Patek Philippe
was able to control every aspect of its production and
thanks to such best-selling models as the Calatrava
(introduced in 1932), sales picked up and the company's
financial health gradually improved.
This period marks a time
of great innovation and the creation of many spectacular
watches. Watches with World Time indication, as well as
sophisticated perpetual calendar watches such as the
Reference 1526, were introduced into the marketplace and
quickly re-established Patek Philippe as the industry
leader. Another advantage Patek had over its competition
was the fact that it was a family-run business. As such,
major business decisions did not have to meet with
approval from a board of directors. In 1934, Henri
Stern, son of Charles Stern, was sent to New York, where
he assumed responsibility for the American distribution
of the company's products. The Henri Stern Agency was
established in New York City for this purpose and
remains in business to this day.
During the 1950's, the
watchmakers at Patek Philippe developed a number of
amazing watches. Hand-painted enamel dials, World Time
watches, minute repeaters, split-second chronographs and
other spectacular timekeepers were to prove extremely
popular with wealthy clients of the firm. At the same
time, even regular production watches were of
spectacular quality.
Among the most
collectible of these are the automatic Patek Philippe
watches with Calibres 12-600 or 27-460, such as the Ref.
2526 which features a genuine porcelain enamel dial. Due
to the incredible beauty of this wristwatch, as well as
its unique (and easily damaged) dial, this particular
model is in high demand by collectors and commands high
prices at auction. Indeed, it is not uncommon for
certain Patek Philippe watches, such as minute
repeaters, to have increased 10,000% in value over their
original retail prices!
In 1958, Henri Stern was
recalled to Switzerland, to replace Jean Pfister as
President and Managing Director of the parent company.
Henri Stern's contribution to the success of Patek
Philippe was to allow the company to grow, without
compromising its founding principles. Under his watchful
eye, the company introduced such models as the Nautilus,
and bravely weathered the industry's economic crisis of
the 70's and 80's. The After Sales Service Department
was greatly improved and further advances were made in
the development of new movements. One such breakthrough
was the 240 Caliber, a self-winding movement featuring a
micro-rotor that allowed Patek's designers to produce
flat automatic wristwatches.
In 1990, Henri Stern
stepped down as President of Patek Philippe to enjoy a
well-deserved retirement. Since then, his son Philippe
Stern, who began working at Patek Philippe in 1977, has
been responsible for overseeing the company's business
activities. Philippe Stern has proven himself to be a
highly capable, responsible executive, introducing
successful models such as the 24 ladies watch, the Ref.
5035, the Gondolo series (in honor of the watches
created for Gondolo & Labourian) and many others. In
addition, Patek Philippe consolidated its many workshops
throughout Geneva, moving into a new state-of-the-art
headquarters in 1996.
One thing that has not changed, nor will
it for that matter, is the issue of Patek Philippe's
ownership. Philippe Stern promises that Patek Philippe
will continue as a family-owned company, despite
enormous financial incentives for him and other family
members to "sell out" to a conglomerate. To that end,
Stern is training his son Thierry to someday succeed him
as president of Patek Philippe. Thus, when Thierry takes
over the company, he will be the fourth generation of
the Stern family entrusted with guiding the destiny of
this unique House. In doing so, he will honor a grand
tradition which dates back to 1845…and a partnership
whose spirit lives on forever in the marvelous products
of Patek Philippe.